As the leaves fall and the air chills, distinctive outerwear has been in our ears and in our eyes and one of the most well-known is the Afghan, also known as the “Penny Lane” coat.

Generally made of sheepskin, leather or suede material with fur lining and cuffs, the beloved style is a glamorous addition to almost any outfit. 

According to The Conversation, the style originated in Afghanistan in the early 20th century – leading it to be dubbed an Afghan coat – and provided Afghans warmth from the country’s cold weather. 

The coats were more than merely functional, though, some were embellished with colorful embroidery for uniqueness and aesthetic value.

How did this Afghan fashion staple gain prominence in the West? 

Artìjan notes that in the late 1960s, an influx of Western “hippies” arrived in Afghanistan in pursuit of a free-spirited, nomadic lifestyle; the widely-taken path from Istanbul to Kathmandu became known as the “Hippie Trail.” One of the most prominent parts of the pilgrimage was Kabul’s Chicken Street.  Formerly brimming with poultry vendors – hence its name – it was a shopping destination for Afghan artisans to sell their goods and subsequently attracted Western tourists, notably hippies. 

According to The Conversation, American Craig Sams began supplying the coats at his London boutique, Granny Takes a Trip, in 1967 after traveling to Kabul in 1965. Being a premier London shop for counterculture fashions, it furthered the popularity of the Afghan coat.

Though already a staple piece among Western hippies, the Afghan coat truly took the fashion world by storm when worn by the time period’s arguably most influential pop culture figures, The Beatles.

For the May 1967 release party for the revolutionary album “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band,” Beatle John Lennon famously wore a yellow Afghan coat with red floral designs and white fur lining. 

Along with the groundbreaking album, Lennon’s one-of-a-kind coat marked an innovative and influential period for the band and counterculture at large.  Like the album, Lennon’s coat was one-of-a-kind and demonstrative of the counterculture’s increasing influence.  

The Beatles continued to popularize the Afghan coat by not only wearing the style – Lennon wore his during filming for The Beatles’ film “Magical Mystery Tour” and George Harrison was photographed wearing one of his own – but also by selling them in their retail store, Apple Boutique, according to The Conversation.

The Beatles’ grip on the fashion world was undeniable. Their contemporaries, including musical artists Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and David Bowie followed suit and donned unique Afghan coats, indelibly adjoining the style to the bohemian, rock’n’roll spirit of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s.

The Afghan coat was among multiple styles to resurge in popularity in the 1990s, reflecting the “’90s does ‘60s” trend. 

One ‘90s style star to sport the style was Angelina Jolie, who famously wore an olive green Afghan coat as sociopath Lisa Rowe in the 1999 film “Girl, Interrupted.” Her coat not only recalls the late ‘60s, during which the film is set but also exemplifies how to put a grung twist on the historically bohemian coat.

Only a year later came the 2000 film “Almost Famous.” Though the films differ in subject matter and tone, they both feature a prominent character who dons an Afghan coat.  The coat was so significant to this character that it has since become synonymous with her name, Penny Lane.  

Played by Kate Hudson, Penny Lane is a young woman touring with an upcoming rock band in 1973.  Spontaneous, charming and glamorous, she embodies the era’s rock’n’roll spirit.  Her clothing, most famously her long olive green Afghan coat, similarly encapsulates the era, to the point that many people simply call the coat style a “Penny Lane” coat.

The film’s costume designer, Betsy Heimann, described the coat’s importance to Penny Lane’s character in an interview with Variety.

“[Hudson] could play her part when she had that coat on,” Heimann said.  “She’d take the coat off and she’d have this little miniature top on and she’d be so bare and vulnerable, but then she’d put the coat on and it’d be, ‘Okay, I’m safe.’”

The newly christened “Penny Lane” coat became essential to the Y2K style. Stars like Britney Spears famously embraced the style, which evolved to reflect other Y2K trends by featuring brighter colors, different patterns and untraditional materials such as denim.

As Y2K style makes a comeback in the 2020s, the Penny Lane coat has experienced revived popularity.  Contemporary style stars such as Olivia Rodrigo and Bella Hadid have upheld the coat’s retro yet timeless glamour.  

The coat also lives on in popular media. In the hit 2023 limited series “Daisy Jones & the Six,” Riley Keough’s character Daisy Jones wears a long Afghan coat, paying homage – like Penny Lane – to the ever-beloved musicians and hippies who recognized the coat’s stylishness decades ago.

I have fallen in love with the coat’s bohemian glamour since its recently revived popularity in the fashion world.  To this day, my brown Afghan coat with cream-colored faux fur lining remains my most cherished thrift find.  

Though I admit to being a romantic, I believe there is some magic in the style, similar to how Kate Hudson could fully embrace the character of Penny Lane, I feel that I can embody the energy of my favorite rock stars and fashion icons of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s when I put on my Afghan coat.  Something about a furry-lined coat just oozes with the glamour of a rock star and the free spirit of a hippie.

If you want to incorporate this iconic coat into your own style, brands such as Urban Outfitters and The Hippie Shake sell a variety of Afghan coats; you can also choose a one-of-a-kind coat from second-hand stores and websites like DePop.

Ultimately, whether you’re hoping to relive the late ‘60s rock scene through fashion or looking to channel your inner pop princess, the Afghan coat is the perfect piece to express yourself as the temperature drops.  What better way to shield yourself from the cold than to wear a coat that exudes individuality and style?  Why not channel the rock’n’roll essence of icons such as John Lennon and Jimi Hendrix as you stride to your final exams this December?  

In the words of Penny Lane herself, “It’s all happening.” 

The Afghan coat is certainly “happening” right now, and judging its decade-spanning versatility, it won’t go out of style any time soon.

As many people brim with excitement for the upcoming holidays, fashion lovers are already looking forward to next spring.

In a press statement released on Nov. 8, the Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) revealed the theme for The Costume Institute’s Spring 2024 exhibition, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.” 

The exhibition will run from May 10 through Sept. 2, 2024, at The Met, while, the coinciding star-studded Costume Institute Benefit, also known as The Met Gala, will be held on May 6, 2024, to celebrate the exhibition’s opening and raise funds for the institute.

According to The Met, the exhibit will feature “approximately 250 garments and accessories spanning four centuries.”  

Andrew Bolton, the Curator in Charge at The Costume Institute, said that the exhibition aims to give new life to these archival pieces by appealing to viewers’ senses through technologies including video animation, soundscapes and light projection.  

“When an item of clothing enters our collection, its status is changed irrevocably.  What was once a vital piece of a person’s lived experience is now a motionless ‘artwork’ that can no longer be worn or heard, touched, or smelled,” Bolton told The Met. “The exhibition endeavors to reanimate these artworks by re-awakening their sensory capacities through a diverse range of technologies, affording visitors sensorial ‘access’ to rare historical garments and rarefied contemporary fashions.”

The Met stated that pieces will be paired with nature-centric iconography and technologies to reinvigorate them. The ceiling of one room “will be projection-mapped with a Hitchcockian swarm of black birds” that surround a pre-World War II black tulle evening dress, according to The Met.

The Met said they hope for the comparison between fashion and nature to emphasize the “fragility and ephemerality of fashion.”

The Met stated that in order to further highlight the delicateness of fashion, a series of garments too fragile to be dressed on mannequins will be displayed in glass “coffins,” hence the exhibition title “Sleeping Beauties,” for viewers to observe their states of deterioration.  Even these extremely delicate pieces will be given new life.

“Select ‘beauties’ will be brought back to life by the illusion technique known as Pepper’s Ghost,” The Met stated. 

Pepper’s Ghost is an illusion technique that is often used in the theater, cinema, museums, concerts and amusement parks in which an image of an off-stage object is projected in order to appear as though it is in front of the audience.

Further emphasizing the life of fashion, The Met said that the exhibition will juxtapose historical fashions with their contemporary counterparts by showcasing the pieces together.  According to Vogue Magazine, works by contemporary designers including Phillip Lim, Stella McCartney and Connor Ives will be showcased in the exhibit.

This year’s lead sponsor, Tiktok, will make the exhibition and benefit possible, while Loewe will provide further support.  

Additional event details and co-chairs remain unannounced.

Though the exhibition itself has sparked much excitement, perhaps the most highly anticipated aspect of the event is seeing how our favorite celebrities will interpret the theme at The Met Gala. 

The theme allows for much creativity from celebrities and stylists given the emphasis on a range of topics including fashion’s evolution, functionality and artistic roles, and fashion’s parallels to nature, but until the Gala, we can only predict who will participate, guess who will be best dressed based on previous galas, and hope that designers’ works reflect the complexities and possibilities of next year’s theme.

Whether they touch our hearts with poignant songs or merely occupy the sensory background of our lives through catchy radio hits, musical artists have an undeniable impact on both popular culture and our personal lives. 

Though many musical artists hope to be recognized for their craft, one cannot deny the significance of an artist’s image, an image largely constructed by fashion.

Members of “the 27 Club” – an unofficial group of musicians who all died at age 27 – are famous not only for their tragically young deaths and musical innovation but also for their unique sense of style. 

From Janis Joplin’s eclectic bohemian flair to Kurt Cobain’s disheveled ensembles, these musicians’ styles have significantly contributed to their enduring impact on pop culture and have inspired generations of fans.

Jimi Hendrix

Jimi Hendrix is best known for his vocal range, lyrical genius, and perhaps most notably, his guitar skills. His songs were influenced by genres ranging from the blues to psychedelia to rock’n’roll and in addition to his musical chops, Hendrix was adept at putting a compelling outfit together.

Like his music, Hendrix’s outfits were bold and complex, often including striking silhouettes, rich colors and psychedelic patterns. Hendrix impressively incorporated multiple statement pieces into cohesive outfits, often tying looks together with patterned head scarves that matched the details in his clothes.  

Hendrix’s attention to detail was not limited to his music. Accessories including stone jewelry, patterned vests and statement hats enhanced his unique style.

Another staple piece in Hendrix’s wardrobe was his “Royal Hussar” British military jacket. His signature jacket not only added to his outfits but likely also nodded to his time spent in the American military, exemplifying his personal approach to fashion.

Janis Joplin 

With her powerful renditions of bluesy rock classics, Janis Joplin established herself as a major rock icon of the late 1960s. In addition to her voice, her eccentric style cemented her as a wholly authentic icon. Joplin has long been a quintessential idol for the late ‘60s to early ‘70s hippie style. 

Joplin embodied the carefree, peaceful spirit associated with the counterculture with a fresh face, wild hair, round-framed glasses and loose-fitting clothing and her affinity for bohemian vests and necklaces on top of necklaces attest to the power, and fun, of layering.

While many of Joplin’s outfits could be characterized as earthy, they certainly incorporated her own touch of glamor. Her creativity was apparent in the inclusion of accessories such as stacked rings, bangle bracelets, hair scarves and long necklaces. Bright colors and rich fabrics such as velvet also solidified her fashionable yet refreshingly natural rockstar image.

Joplin often melded casual late ‘60s staples such as bell-bottom jeans with showier pieces such as fur hats and coats, which have proved to be enduring statement pieces. Her long fur-lined coat – often referred to as a “Penny Lane” coat – has become particularly popular in recent years, serving as the perfect piece for wearers to embrace a bold bohemian look of their own.

Jim Morrison

Jim Morrison, lead singer-songwriter of The Doors, has often seemed a contradictory figure and although his addiction-fueled behavior led to the public perceiving him as a reckless rock god, he has been widely celebrated for his thoughtful and sometimes cryptic lyrics and poems.

His style reflected his complicated image. While his button-down silk blouses suggest the look of a sensitive poet, his famous leather pants manifest his bad boy, rock star image. Even his hair, rebelliously long yet romantically tousled, exemplified his mysterious, complex image.

Morrison’s penchant for leather certainly was not limited to pants. Fitted leather jackets—sometimes without a shirt underneath—were staple pieces in his effortlessly cool wardrobe.  

Morrison often enhanced his outfits with Western-style statement belts, which beautifully stood out against his solid leather pants.

Kurt Cobain

Nirvana singer, songwriter and guitarist, Kurt Cobain, rose to fame in the early ‘90s as a key figure in Seattle’s alternative rock, or “grunge,” music scene. His raw, introspective music marked a large shift from that of flashy ‘80s hair bands to the grunge movement of the ‘90s. 

Like his music, Cobain’s style indicated a new authenticity in rock music. His greasy hair and unflashy outfits – which often incorporated loose band tees, baggy jeans and ever-popular flannels and cardigans – strikingly contrasted the meticulously styled hair and gaudy ensembles of rock stars of the previous decade.  

Though Cobain often seemed to prioritize comfort in his style, he certainly knew how to make a statement through fashion. Instead of donning designer apparel – as many musicians might – Cobain famously wore a t-shirt stating “Corporate magazines still suck” on the cover of Rolling Stone Magazine in 1992. His statement shirt, which he paired with his now-iconic large oval sunglasses, a slouchy cardigan and ripped jeans, emphasized his authenticity. He made it clear that, to him, music was an outlet for self-expression, not merely a path to fame.

Though Cobain’s style might be seen as intentionally anti-fashion, he did not always disregard fashion expectations just to rebel. On one occasion Cobain was seen sporting pajamas and bedhead during his wedding to Courtney Love simply because he was reportedly too lazy to put on a tuxedo.

A vocal feminist, Cobain was critical of the uber-macho rock star stereotype. He subverted and poked fun at this expectation by wearing feminine clothes, such as dresses, skirts and occasionally donning painted nails or smokey eyeliner for photoshoots and concerts. The impact of his bold juxtaposition of feminine and masculine pieces resounds today as an increasing number of male artists incorporate feminine elements into their styles.

Amy Winehouse 

Amy Winehouse asserted herself as a star in the 2000s with her powerful voice, cutting lyrics and unforgettable style. As with her music, Winehouse’s fashion meshed elements from the ‘50s and ‘60s along with modern components. 

Winehouse’s signature beehive hairdo and winged eyeliner mirrored trends of ‘60s icons such as The Ronettes, who also inspired her soulful music. Her more contemporary tattoos are markedly juxtaposed with her hair and makeup. 

Winehouse often wore simple outfits, such as solid tank tops with blue jeans, which maintained focus on heavy makeup, over-the-top hair and bold tattoos. Large hoop earrings and visible bra straps served as playful modern touches and likely contributed, in addition to her publicized health issues and addiction struggles, to her contemporary reckless rockstar image.

Winehouse’s looks certainly attest to the power that cosmetics, shoes and accessories have on a person’s image.  Though unflashy, her trademark ballet flats – which are currently resurging in popularity due to trends such as “balletcore” – added a delicate touch to her looks and reflected the popular “twee” style of the early 2010s. Headbands also vamped up her more understated outfits while paying homage to styles of the 1950s and 1960s.

Though casual pieces were staples in her style, Winehouse certainly knew how to dress up with her signature flair. Her formal dresses often had vintage-inspired silhouettes; retro yet bold sweetheart necklines manifested her edgy flair. She often wore her customary colors, black, white and red, perhaps to not overwhelm her striking hair, makeup, and tattoos. Accessories such as red hair flowers, black gloves and timeless patterns such as polka dots and plaid are made for beautiful and personal finishing touches.

While the 27 club’s members’ styles differ, they share a significant commonality, an unabashed reflection of individuality. While it certainly would be fun to emulate Morrison’s leather ensembles for a night out or copy Winehouse’s eye-catching makeup to channel the ‘60s, the best style cue you can take from these icons is to wear what makes you feel good.  While you might not want or be able to influence pop culture as these artists did, you surely do not need to be rich or famous to express yourself through fashion. 

Columbus is known for its chic restaurants, premier sports and lively entertainment. Some might not know that the city also hosts the country’s third-largest concentration of fashion designers and is home to a flourishing fashion scene.

Fashion Week Columbus (FWC), a flagship program of the Columbus Fashion Council, aims to highlight both established and emerging designers’ works while bringing the community together and supporting local businesses. Hosted at The Joseph Hotel, The 14th Annual High Tea Runway Show featured the works of four designers and treated patrons to a tea lunch to kick off FWC.  

The first featured designer was Xantha Ward, owner of a boutique at Common Thread, a downtown shopping destination. 

Ward, a Columbus native, said she was a quiet child who found fashion as a means of self-expression and the pieces in her “Earth, Wind, and Fire” collection spoke for themselves: bold colors representing the elements, detailed patterns, and materials including tulle and feathers materialized her eclectic approach to fashion. 

One of Ward’s designs paired a camouflage print top hat and jacket with a billowing green tulle skirt, a combination that not many would think to pair together. 

Ward will showcase her next collection, “Ghetto Blues,” during the FWC Finale Runway Show this Saturday. 

In addition to Columbus shows, Ward has presented her designs worldwide. Ward recently participated in London Fashion Week and has plans to partake in Paris Fashion Week next year. While she enjoys attending international shows, Ward spoke highly of her hometown’s fashion week. 

“I love Columbus Fashion Week because they let me do what I want to do and be free,” Ward said. 

Following Ward was Sydney Peters, a self-taught designer based in Columbus.  

Like Ward, Peters has participated in FWC before—not only as a featured designer for the Passport 2 Fashion Show last year, but also as a bartender for the High Tea Runway Show in 2021. Peters said she strived to exhibit her growth as a designer in her High Tea Runway Show collection, titled Le Jardin, this year.

“This collection will definitely showcase my progress as a designer because it is completely different from anything I’ve ever done before,” Peters said. “I’ve pushed my own limits with testing new shapes, new dyeing methods, new fabrics, the whole gamut.”

Peters said she aimed for the audience to feel “whisked away” to a whimsical garden through her collection, which she found inspiration for from childhood memories of planting fairy gardens with her mother. 

The soft pastels, tulle and ribbons prominent in her designs were certainly reminiscent of whimsical garden fairies. Peters’ developing versatility was evinced through various silhouettes and styles, which range from a tailored gingham jumpsuit to a stunning corset gown.

Peters’ mood after the show reflected the dreamy world she aspired to create through her designs. 

“I feel relieved,” Peters said. “I created the image and the feeling that I really was hoping to and I was so happy I cried at the end.”

Peters’ next show, “Sole Celebration Finale!,” which will take place on Oct. 26 at the Columbus Museum of Art, will benefit the nonprofit In Christy’s Shoes, which aids central Ohio women facing struggles including cancer, homelessness, and addiction. 

Rachna Chandra, fashion designer for Indian bridal boutique Taj Cottage, was another one of the featured designers of the event. For her showcased collection, Chandra said that she was inspired by grand occasions, in particular the Met Gala. 

“These [pieces] are designed for people who want to walk [a] red carpet, or a special party or an occasion,” Chandra said. 

Chandra’s designs were appropriate for such formal events and included highly detailed dresses, two-piece sets and menswear; multiple included glamorous silver and gold details.

Chandra’s Indian-fusion touch was evident not only in her clothing designs, which meshed traditional pieces such as saris with various cuts, colors, and fabrics but also in the models’ makeup. 

Some of the models sported striking beaded eyebrows, which Chandra explained is a nod to the traditional bindi. 

“Usually, in Indian culture, the Hindu culture, we put a red dot on our forehead in between the brows, and that has its own significance,” Chandra said. “But, instead of that, I thought of putting the balls on their…eyebrows, so it enhances [their faces] a little bit.”

Although Chandra, a Michigan resident, said she is done showcasing her work in Columbus this year, she hopes to present at FWC again next year.

Peruvian designer Juan José Sanez-Ferreyos was the last designer to present at the event. This marks his sixth year participating in FWC, which he said is always a wonderful event to be a part of. 

Ferreyos’s pieces, inspired by his parents’ elegant parties in Lima, Peru, exuded glamor through rich jewel tones, metallics, ornate designs, and daring silhouettes. Though all the designs were high fashion, some were more practical and conservative than others, reflecting what Ferreyo explained as the COVID-19 pandemic’s influence on fashion.  

“People like something more ready-to-wear,” Ferreyo said. “Now in my collection, I mix the simple with the elegant.”

Ferreyo owns two boutiques in Lima, Peru, and his couture brand FerreyosLife in the United States. Ferreyo will also be showcasing both his men’s and women’s designs during the FWC Finale Runway Show this Saturday.

While the High Tea Runway Show has been a tradition throughout the history of FWC, one new aspect of this year’s event was its executive director, Keira Chatman, who is also executive director of Columbus Fashion Council, who recently took over the role from FWC founder Thomas McClure. Chatman said she is excited to take on this role, given Columbus’s burgeoning fashion scene.

“I love it because I’m from Columbus, born and raised,” Chatman said. “I went to school for fashion merchandising and at the time when I first lived here and graduated from college, there weren’t many opportunities in fashion so I’m happy to be a part of the city I grew up in, building the community in fashion. I’m proud of how far we’ve come.”

Chatman said that FWC has grown a great deal over the past 14 years, largely thanks to support from the community.

“Because so many people want to be a part of what we [are] doing, it’s easier for us to spread the message about what we [are] doing because people are starting to catch on, they’re starting to see how influential we can be with our designers, with our models, photographers,” Chatman said. 

The relationship between the Columbus fashion community and the city as a whole was emphasized throughout the show with help from local businesses who enhanced patrons’ experiences. 

The Guild House provided tea sandwiches, Posh Teatime Co. supplied tea and Sistars Treats and More contributed an array of desserts for guests. 

FWC has only just begun and there are many events still to come. 

For details on this celebration of fashion and community, visit Fashion Week Columbus’ website. 

For Scarlette’s full gallery of photos from this year’s High Tea Runway Show click here.

PHOTOGRAPHY Sandra Fu